Updated on September 29, 2017
Day 10 of Turkey Vacation: Hiking in Göreme Valleys on August 28th, 2016
Last day in the beautiful Cappadocia region.
I had been thinking quite hard about what to do for the day, and I was seriously planning for Lake Tuz. But out hotel manager told us that there wasn’t much water in the salt lake in this season, and usually people put Lake Tuz tour along with the Green Tour in one day (and it would be quite a long day then).
I finally decided on trekking the valleys of the Cappadocia region. I saw online and heard from our tour guides that many of the valleys in Cappadocia can actually be walked, and I was particularly interested in the Pigeon Valley from Göreme to Uchisar.
After some more research, I settled on one day’s hiking from Göreme, through Pigeon Valley to Uchisar, visit its historic castle (that’s often seen in the previous two day’s tours), and then walk North along Love Valley, and then walk back through an ATV trail on some nameless plateau back to Göreme.
But before that, I decided to wake up early and watch the sunrise, while the sky’s decorated with colorful air balloons.
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So I walked to the same spot where I watched sunset last night. There were already some people up early to watch the sunrise like me, but not as many as yesterday’s sunset spectators.
While I was gazing over the distant horizon for sunrise, the balloons had all taken flight and began to decorate my skies.
On that day there were some clouds just above the Eastern horizon, so I got to watch sunrise twice, once rising over the horizon, and once over the clouds. Meantime, I was also enjoying the balloons on the other side of the sky.
Then there were some balloons flying low right next to us. I guessed they were the ones that got their own launch sites.
Then it was quarter past 7, and I had been watching the balloons and sunrise for more than an hour. I thought it was time for me to head back, had breakfast, and began the day’s hiking.
Then it was the hiking part of the day.
I know by choosing to hike the valleys I would leave Cappadocia region without visiting its iconic Göreme Open-Air Museum. But to this day, it turned out that the most memorable part of my Göreme trip was its valleys, and I would definitely be willing to trade off one of the Green or Red tours for more hiking experiences.
Quick verdict, hike Pigeon Valley with its breathtaking scenery, drive up to Love Valley. The Southern part of Love Valley (near Uchisar) wasn’t so hiker-friendly.
My hiking tracks are on https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=16069197.
The trials in the valleys were clearly marked in OpenStreetMap, also, one can easily find the GPS recordings of other hikers. Although there weren’t much signs in the valleys, with a cell phone one shouldn’t get lost.
So I left my hotel room at roughly 9 in the morning. The entrance of Pigeon Valley is clearly marked near Göreme.
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Old Lady Pushing Cart of FirewoodAfter being a proper tourist in the Cappadocia region for two days, it was so glad to see signs of humanity like this.
My hike into Pigeon Valley was all going well, until I was unexpectedly welcomed by some barking dogs. Since I’m dog-phobia, it took me quite a long time to make sure that the dogs were properly leashed before I proceeded with extreme caution into my hike.
I turned out that I was passing through what used to be a restaurant (or vending booth) in the Pigeon Valley trail. I guess not many tourists would walk this Pigeon Valley trail, so that catering restaurant or shop was closed at the moment, and some dogs were guarding that property, against thieves I thought. Obviously to the dogs, I qualified as one.
Another problem here was that, there were so many trails in the Pigeon Valley, that I wasn’t aware that I needed to deviate to another trail in a bifurcation 50 meters ago. With the barking of dogs keeping me on alert, it took me quite some time before finally the GPS files I downloaded from other explorers helped, and I got back to the right trail.
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Rock Tunnels along Pigeon Valley TrailIt turned out that I should take another parallel trail, not this one.
There are a number of exits of Pigeon Valley trail on the Uchisar part, and by 10 I was at the first exit. There was a shop open for business at this exit. (The previous close shop guarded by barking dogs was not accessible by cars, but this one was, so I guess this was why it stayed open.)
However, I decided to stay in Pigeon Valley a little bit longer, which meant I climbed up and got some wonderful bird’s-eye view of the Pigeon Valley and its surrounds, which was spectacular.
After that, I climbed down and continued my journey in the Pigeon Valley.
At one time I happened to spot a cave that’s about my height and my width, so I decided to have a little adventure in it.
So after scraping my backpack against the rocks for 15 minutes, I came out of the other end of the cave passage on some sort of mini cliff 3 meters above ground, with no way down though. So I took some photos, greeted some passing Turkish hikers (as they wondered how I got up there), and braved myself (and my backpack) for the way out.
After taking in all the wonderful sceneries, I exited Pigeon Valley at around 11 o’clock, at the second last exit. (The last exit of Pigeon Valley was way South of Uchisar, which is where Red Tour and Green Tour participants take their photos of “Pigeon Valley and Uchisar Castle”. The other exits are just in the Uchisar town.)
While I was walking in Uchisar Town, I spotted numerous construction sites where the workers were converting ancient caves to modern cave hotels. One worker on the outskirt of town along Pigeon Valley even invited me to a drink (of water). I guess the town of Göreme had run out of caves to convert, and so it’s the turn for Uchisar caves.
By the way, it didn’t seem very much a bad idea to stay instead in Uchisar hotels, as the views in Uchisar are in my opinion better than Göreme, because Uchisar is on high ground and can see much farther.
Then I happened to spot some pigeons resting on (and flying between) some newly constructed hotel eaves.
After that, I got to Uchisar Castle, and climbed it to claim the best view of Cappadocia region (other than on an air balloon).
Yes, parts of the Uchisar Castle interior were accessible to visitors, but with the more magnificent Selime Monastery and underground cities, most visitors to the Uchisar Castle were only for the view, like me.
After that, I replenish my water supply through local vendors at Uchisar, and headed for the Love Valley.
From Uchisar it was a short hike along the country road to Göreme, a left turn at yesterday’s Onyx factory/shop, a slightly longer hike on country dirt road before a very steep trail down to the beginning of Love Valley.
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Trails Splitting before Love ValleyI took the left trail, the trail on the right was not on the map yet…

Steep Trail down to Love ValleyThe trail was steep, and as one can see there were those unstable gravels that could shift at any moment which added to the difficult of walking downwards.
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Flowers with Thorns in Love ValleyThey were everywhere in Love Valley. The problem was that, the trails were much narrower in Love Valley, which meant I was constantly in contact with their annoying thorns.
To be fair, the Southern part of Love Valley wasn’t really suitable for hiking. The trails are often too narrow (due to those flowers with thorns and other branches of plants), the slopes were often too steep (and the gravels meant they required additional caution). Worst of all, there were literally zero fellow hikers with barely any cell phone signal, which meant there could be no help in case of accident.
And the cone rocks were not as dense as the Northern part of Love Valley.
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Trail along Piled Rocks in Love ValleyThere’s a grape field on the right. From now on the trails of Love Valley began to be wider and more accessible.
After this I was in Northern Love Valley, where there were grape fields since cars were accessible.
Not after that it was the core area of Love Valley, which got its name from the cone rocks resembling male’s genital parts due to erosion.
Then I found a (very steep) path up to one of them, so that I didn’t need to stay on the bottom of this forest of penises cone rocks.
It was half past 3 in the afternoon, and I had two options going back to Göreme, one was to take the well-paved country road between Çavuşin and Göreme, the other was to walk a nameless trail appeared on my cell phone map (that later turned out to be an ATV trail). Of course I chose the latter, which appeared to be more fun.
There wasn’t much to talk about on that final leg back to Göreme, other than the Aktepe was constantly at my left, and I could watch the clouds casting some beautiful shadows onto its cliffs. And that there was literally no traffic on that ATV trail, except for once some ATV’s passed me, and I was waiting on the side for more than one minute before the dusts were settled down.

Sculpture outside Göreme Government BuildingRocks and horses, two things most representative of the Cappadocia region.
I got back to Göreme at 16:20, booked airport shuttle through some local travel agency (I thought the standard price was 20TL per person to Nevşehir Airport), picked up my bags at our hotel, that was basically the end of day (, except the flight log which was one a separate post).
Of course, on the minivan ride to airport, I took some more photos.
END
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