Day 1 of 2020 Alaska Trip, Drivig to Seward

by admin

First day of our Alaska trip. We would be driving from Anchorage to Seward today. The 2.5-hour journey would pass through some beautiful landscapes, like Turnagain Arm and Chugach National Forest. In addition, we would take a detour to visit the town of Whittier, a town only accessible on land through a single-lane cold war tunnel.

Explorer Glacier

After yesterday’s exhausting full-day flying, when we set off for airport early and reached hotel late, in addition to 4 hours of time difference, we set off reasonably late this morning. After a trip to the downtown car rental store and moving all our luggage into the car, it’s almost 11am by the time we left our overnight hotel.

By the way, the associate at Enterprise downtown Anchorage had us gone through the most detailed walkaround of the car, despite that it was drizzling at the time and we could hardly see the many shallow scratches until later in the trip. She was also the pushiest about selling insurances, maybe because the corporate rate that we booked was much lower than what they usually rented out for.

Not long after leaving Anchorage, we reached Turnagain Arm, which was a narrow waterway on the northern end of Cook Inlet. Alaska Route 1 ran next to it for quite some distance, with scenic views as the narrow two-lane road wound its way between soaring mountains and crashing waves.

A rail track ran parallel to State route 1 in this portion. Rail and roadway took turns occupying the vantage waterfront view. Seward could also be reached from Anchorage via a sightseeing train.

Beluga Point

Along the way there were a few roadside turnouts for picture-lovers, Beluga Point was one of the bigger ones.

Beluga Point

A small rocky island in Turnagain Arm not far from shore. In low-water season it should be accessible on foot. During our visit it’s separated by a small channel, requiring audacity and a giant leap to get across.

Railroad

To reach Beluga Point from parking lot one had to cross this railroad. Most people, us included, chose to ignore warning signs and sneaked through an opening in the fence to get close to water.

Pounding Waves
It was rather windy by the waters that day, these pounding waves could attest.

Turnagain Arm

Turnagain Arm
Resurrection Creek Valley across waters.

Northern Shore of Turnagain Arm

Turnagain Arm from Beluga Point

Turnout along AK1

I planned the next stop to be Bird Point, a bastion into Turnagain Arm. Unfortunately, I missed the exit, so we stopped at the next roadside turnout instead.

This time, I set off my drone across Turnagain Arm.

Overlooking Turnagain Arm

Turnagain Arm

Mt Alpenglow
A towering mountain south of Turnagain Arm.

Mountains

Hill Slope

Hill by Turnagain Arm

And here’s my drone’s video on its return.

Turnagain Arm from Shore

Shores of Turnagain Arm

Turnagain Arm

Whittier

The town of Whittier was American military’s gateway into Alaska during World War II (they probably thought Cook Inlet was too much a detour than Prince William Sound). Separate from the outside world by Maynard Mountain, the army built a 4100m railway tunnel through it.

The town’s probably most famous for its Begich Towers, which was built in 1957 for army personnel. In addition to residential units, the building contained all basic services of a town: post office, general store, police department, church, and even a hotel, thus given Whittier the nickname “town under one roof”. Perhaps that’s true in winter’s brutal weather, but during our visit, the other parts of the town was certainly alive and kicking.

Line to Enter Tunnel
To(left) and from(right) Whittier.

The tunnel to Whittier was the only part of our journey where we had to pay toll. Coincidentally, it’s the only place where we encountered some annoying flies/bugs. The one-lane tunnel operated on a published schedule, with traffic direction alternating every half hour (time your arrival wisely). The lady at the toll booth stressed repeatedly about follow distance and speed limit since it’s a one-lane tunnel with uneven surfaces.

There were lots of videos of cars travelling through this tunnel, I won’t post ours taken inside our car, in quality far from ideal.

Approaching the town of Whittier, the soaring Begich Towers were hard to miss. In a normal year, I’d love to take a tour of this roof that housed an entire town. Unfortunately, a few residents of Begich Towers had tested positive for COVID, (and half the tower fled as a rumor) so the building closed its doors for visitors. Instead, we took a quick walk around it.

Begich Towers
Exterior paint looked pretty fresh.

Moose

We found a mini farm right across Begich Towers housing two moose. We weren’t too sure why someone would be raising them, probably for some tours?

Our next stop of the day was Buckner Building, the other main structure in town. Constructed by the military in 1953 (4 years earlier than Begich Towers), it also followed the model of “town under one roof” with movie theater, bowling alley, hospital and radio/TV station in the building in addition to residential units.

Buckner Building

After the military pulled out, Buckner Building gradually fell into disrepair. Right now, the perimeter fence around the building kept out all visitors by day and ghosthunters by night.

Tunnel to Chinese Restaurant

A covered walkway between a condominium and waterfront for the winter. Chinese restaurants were really ubiquitous around the world.

Before the tunnel to outside world reopened, we spent some time at Prince William Sound Museum (closed, only a few exhibits along a public corridor), and the town’s waterfront.

Inn At Whittier
Historic waterfront hotel.

Whittier Harbor
Luxury yachts and work boats alike were harbored here.

Official census of the town’s 200-ish population seemed out of line with the huge number of boats in its harbor. After learning the fact that the tunnel wasn’t open to vehicular traffic until 2000, before which it was railway only, this came less of a shock as boats were like a lifeline here.

Whittier Harbor
Buckner Building in the background.

Passage Canal

Portage Lake

After the tunnel from Whittier, we regained control of our driving pace from its schedule. We made a stop by Portage Lake, “Begich Boggs Visitor Center” to be exact.
The lake and nearby glacier was named because it’s on portage route between Prince William Sound and Turnagain Arm. Right after the tunnel into Whittier there’s the trailhead of Portage Pass Trail, following which one could reach the other end of Portage Lake with views of Portage Glacier, the largest in its vicinity. We were not in the mood of hiking today, so we chose the easy option of driving to its other end, before the tunnel.

Burns Glacier across Lake
The larger Portage Glacier was no longer visible from visitor center.

Byron Glacier

From visitor center, I launched my drone for an aerial tour of the lake. Despite that my drone should have the range to cross the entire span of Portage Lake to its other end, with views of Portage Glacier, I instead mistakenly aimed for the closer Byron Glacier (photo’d above). Even worse, clouds were getting lower and thicker after I launched my drone, so Byron Glacier turned out to be out of my drone’s reach.
And here’s my drone’s video:

Shores of Portage Lake

Forest

Valley
Through which Portage Creek flew into Turnagain Arm in the distance.

Portage Lake

Overlooking Portage Lake

Explorer Glacier

Despite the setback, my wish of touring glaciers with drone quickly came to realization no far down the road, with Explorer Glacier.

Portage Glacier Road

Portage Creek

Lake
A short stroll from this roadside turnout where Explorer Glacier was situated across the lake. All vivid colors of nature were present here.

Explorer Glacier across Lake

Here’s a video of my drone approaching the glacier surface.

Explorer Glacier

Taken at my drone’s maximum permitted altitude (relative to takeoff) of 500m. It’s wonderful to get such an up-close look at the crevasses(fractures) of a glacier.

Overlooking Valley
Portage creek wound its way to Turnagain Arm, with snow-crested mountain on both sides of the valley.

Lake
From my drone (left) and ground (right).

After that, we headed straight towards Seward with little delay. The country road to Seward passed through some dense forests with nice views. Unfortunately, portions of the road was under construction, it’s one of those moments when one wonder whether the small rental sedan would withstand it unscratched.

Country Road

Our overnight Airbnb was located out of town along Exit Glacier Road. Unfortunately, I missed its exit (second time of the day). So, we decided to take a quick look of downtown Seward first.

Downtown Seward

Seward’s downtown was made of a few blocks of restaurants and souvenir shops. Due to COVID, most non-restaurants were closed, one could almost sense the desolation in the air.